Smart Tip: Lengthen or Shorten Your Pattern Pieces!

How to Lengthen/Shorten A Pattern Piece

If a pattern has a cut line to use for adding or removing length, you can customize the garment to fit your body style. This means the designer took the time to determine for you where it is most appropriate and will not disrupt the design or the way your fabric will lay once construction is complete.

I’m using the Love Notions Ladies Hip Hop Tank for this example to lengthen.  A tip for SHORTENING is at the end of this tutorial.

My chest is larger than my waist by 11 inches. Therefore, I know that I need to add at least 2” to the length of my tank. My chest will raise up the tank’s length on my body.

On the main pattern piece for the tank, you will find a scissor and dotted line indicating where to cut to lengthen or shorten.

I know I need to lengthen by 2” so I have cut on the dotted line and then squared my (now) 2 pattern pieces on my cutting mat, 2” apart.

I’ve recycled the paper that was left over from cutting out the actual pattern, turned it over so no print would show (avoiding confusion!), and placed it under my pattern pieces.
Repeat with the back pattern piece.

Tape to secure and you now have added length to your tank!

The same concept will work for shortening. Take the bottom part of the two pieces you created. Measure the length you need to REMOVE. Mark your cut lines on the bottom piece, using your cutting mat or other measuring tools. Cut on the line you just created/marked. Tape the bottom piece back to the top piece. Do the same with the back of the bodice. And you’re ready to cut your fabric!


Happy Sewing!
gloria june

Its a nice day for a White Wedding with Jenny by Sis Boom & Scientific Seamstress

Sis Boom / Scientific Seamstress' Jenny in June

I'm back again with another look at Pattern Revolution's BundleUP for Women.

She's already been around the block, but the Jenny Dress for Women is always welcome.

This dress is a partnership design by Jennifer Paganelli of Sis Boom and Carla Hegeman Crim, the Scientific Seamstress.  A variety of sewing patterns are available from this crew: sewing patterns for children, women, men and accessories; as well as fabrics and decorating inspiration.
Find out more at their websites: Sis Boom and Scientific Seamstress.

The Plan

This is my first chance to make a Jenny.  Many of you have already bought the pattern, and many of you have actually made it.  (I've got plenty of patterns that I haven't even opened yet!) 

I just watched the season finale of "Little Couple" wherein the husband surprises his wife with a vow renewal ceremony and has her personal seamstress design a dress.

Wait, what, personal seamstress? I am my personal seamstress. Hmph.  My husband won't be able to do that.  And, he can't look into my clothes for tags showing my size because I make my clothes.  What do I do (just in case he whisks me away to Hawaii again and we renew our vows on the beach too . . . )

So I dig into my extremely large closet filled with hoarded fabrics and patterns and what do you know . . . lots of "white" fabrics and frills.  Ok, let's have a pretend White Wedding with Jenny!

The Details are in the Instructions

Scientific Seamstress patterns are full of detail and explanation and diagrams and drawings and, oh my . . . Yes, there are 215 pages in this pattern.  The majority of those pages are (shout it!) separate pattern pieces for each size!  Yep, no nesting.  And no color.  Just print out the size that best correlates to your measurements.  My ink cartridge thanks me!  

The instructions are much more detailed and may frighten you, but don't be scared -- all of it is there to help you improve your sewing skills & knowledge!  She truly has a sewing scientific method that will benefit you in ways you may not realize right away.  Its worth the time and lessons learned!

My Jenny

My body type is hard to fit.  Even following the guidelines to the letter, this dress doesn't fit my body the way I like.  My daughter and I have the same waist and hip measurements, but the dress will fall differently in different places on our bodies.  (gravity hasn't affected her 22 year old body yet!). 

My Jenny advice for you 

Bundle this pattern and learn techniques and tricks to custom fit a garment just for you!  Its worth it for now and for the future!

Here's what to do when you start your Jenny:  

Use your lining pieces as your muslin.  Prepare the lining following the instructions as you would the fashion fabric.  Try the lining on with a bra if you plan to wear one with this dress.  Make any adjustments on the lining piece, marking your changes with pins or marking pen/pencil.  

Now you can put together your fashion fabric pieces matching the adjustments you have made on your lining! Voila!   

You may not need any adjustment at all, depending on how your body type falls in the design of the dress.  If so, you're halfway through because you used your lining as the muslin!  Score!

The magic of sewing your own clothes is that YOU make it work for you.  

The magic of sewing patterns is 

that someone has worked very hard to give you a head start on your dream wardrobe. 

What will you dream to be in your Jenny?

The Blog Tour Continues throughout the sale.  Here's some more looks at the patterns available:

June 20

Max California, Gloria June, Mother Sews Best

June 21 

Feather's Flights, Gloria June, Becca Duval Photography,

June 22

The Mother Huddle, Gloria June

June 23

Mother Sews Best, Idle Fancy, Swoodson Says

June 24

Shaffer Sisters, That's What She Crafted

June 25

Friends Stitched Together, Handmade Dress Haven, Sprouting Jube Jube

June 26

Modern Handmade, Rebel and Malice, Lulu and Celeste

June 27

Sew McCool, Pienkel, Gloria June, Sew Maris

Happy Sewing (and dreams),

gloria june

PS:
An outtake that I put back in.  Taking photos is not an easy task. And this has been a long month of secret sewing for all of you!

I'm running out of daylight here!

ModKid Hailey Misses - It's in the BundleUp for Women hosted by PatternRevolution!

Pattern Revolution presents another bundle!  It's a BundleUp opportunity for you to get your self-care sewing on!  Today I am reviewing the Hailey Misses by Patty Young of ModKid.  

Get your copy of this pattern, and many more patterns just for ladies here.  

Hailey Misses

by modkid

Shirt, Tunic and Dress for Women

Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL

This dress makes me feel GREAT!

I feel fun and carefree in this dress!  I almost forgot that little voice in my head that reminds me I'm almost 50 (I'm planning ahead, it happens in 636 days . . . .and maybe 50 is the new black . . .) I believe the thoughts "footloose and fancy free" came to mind as I walked outside to take a few photos on our property.

The woman I want to thank for making me feel pretty today is Patty Young, owner/designer of ModKid. Patty describes herself as a "lover of all things pretty and colorful" on her Blogger Profile. I hope I have complimented her vision for the Hailey Misses.

To learn more about Patty and her beautiful creations, please visit her blog here.  You may also like to see her fabric line at Michael Miller Fabrics here.

Let's get to the Pattern now, shall we?!

This PDF Pattern is designed for women, sizes xs - xxl (size chart reflects 30" - 42" bust, 32" - 44" hip). Instructions and pattern pieces are included to make a Top, Tunic or Dress.  There are 18 color-coded pages to print, 3 nested pattern pieces to cut. The suggested fabrics are wovens (lighter weight class) or knits.

I went with a knit because I love how well it drapes.  And I know it shirrs well too!

This is a fun and flirty design, a v-neck, scoop back, and comfortable sleeves.  

Construction:

I decided to wait to finish the neck and arm sleeves until after I completed basic construction of the garment. I wanted to check the length of the bodice, how it sits on my body, while wearing my favorite bra.  Waiting to finish these hems would allow me to make changes to the shoulder seams, if necessary.  I also prefer the look of a finished hem/seam.

I did not have to make any changes! Perfect fit!  

I also waited to add the shirring after I stitched BOTH sides of the garment.

I am a backstitcher when I shirr, so I was afraid that I would cut into my stitched bobbin elastic when finishing the open side seam -- I use my serger more often than not in a garment like this, so I would probably not pay attention and cut my bobbin strings with the serger blade.  I like to shirr in-the-round.

I shirred the recommended number of rows for my size.  Perfect!

I chose to leave the hem unfinished.

Time to take a few photos!

My Recommendation

YES!! Add this to your BundleUp purchase!!!!

A Beginner+ will be comfortable sewing this pattern.  It is a quick sew -- about an hour to hour and a half --more if you are a perfectionist and want your rows shirred in the straightest line.

The instructions include helpful guides to choose your fabric, determine stretch (if you chose a knit), how to shirr, other helpful tips relating to the construction of this garment; and, diagrams & photos are included as you read through the instructions.

I will use this pattern often.  It is the most comfortable dress I own at the moment!

Thank you Patty Young for this wonderful self-care moment.

I think I'll head to Joann's next time I go to the city.  They carry Patty's fabrics, designed for Michael Miller Fabrics!

Show some love and head on over to the other Blogs on this Pattern Revolution Women's BundleUP Promotional Tour (June 20-27, 2014):

June 20

Max California, Gloria June, Mother Sews Best

June 21 

Feather's Flights, Gloria June, Becca Duval Photography,

June 22

The Mother Huddle, Gloria June

June 23

Mother Sews Best, Idle Fancy, Swoodson Says

June 24

Shaffer Sisters, That's What She Crafted

June 25

Friends Stitched Together, Handmade Dress Haven, Sprouting Jube Jube

June 26

Modern Handmade, Rebel and Malice, Lulu and Celeste

June 27

Sew McCool, Pienkel, Gloria June, Sew Maris

I'll be back tomorrow with a look at Scientific Seamtress' Jenny; and then again the following day with a look at the options (I know!) I chose for my Jocole Peplum and Jocole Skinny Pants!  And on the 27th, I'll take a look at Violette Field Threads' Piper.  (My daughter wanted this one!)  

Happy Sewing!  

gloria june

Another BundleUp from Pattern Revolution is on its way -- and its for Women!!!

I've been taking lots of secret selfies in the last month. . . . all in preparation for 

Pattern Revolution's 

WOMEN'S BundleUp Sale!

Here's a preview of the garments I have tested of the PDF Sewing Patterns for Women included in the 

June 20-27, 2014 promotion:

Ellie Inspired Spring Lily for Women

Greenstyle Creations Taylor Shorts

Citron Twist Shrug by Candy Castle Patterns

Everything Your Mama Made & More 

Calla Lily Skirt

Four Seasons Cardigan & Duster 

by Everything Your Mama Made & More

Love Notions Ladies Hip Hop Tank & Top

(Love Notion No. 5)

Mark your calendars Ladies!  You can find more information about the BundleUp here:

Women's BundleUP!

Happy Self-care Sewing,

gloriajune

Stitchwerx releases a Sweet Suite of Baby Patterns that has inspired me to FLIP my blog!

Stitchwerx Ainsley & Aiden Collection Baby Suite 1

This collection of sewing patterns for baby's first year has me flipped!  So much so, that we are flipping the blog today -- the HOW TO is up first!


I'm part of a blog tour promoting the release of this pattern.  If you follow the tour, you'll see lots of beautiful photos of babies wearing garments made and inspired by the entire collection.  A few of us used baby dolls that were carefully selected to fit the sizing of a preemie or newborn -- so you might even see photos of those as well.

Most important to me in promoting this pattern is to let you know that I participated in the testing of this pattern; and straightaway I knew it was a winner.  I used scrap fabrics, as I usually do during testing of a new pattern, and wouldn't you know it . . . I should have used my best fabrics because 

All of the items were perfect the first time!!!  

That is why . . . . .

I finally have a GO-TO pattern 

for baby showers and newborns! 

(happy dance!!)

Here's HOW-TO  create your own, easy to access, never cut it out again, best-baby-gift ever-pattern-pieces, conveniently stored for use over and over again from Stitchwerx !

Grab everything you need to start tracing your new favorite pattern:

• Tracing paper
• Printed Pattern (link to purchase the pattern)
• Tape
• Ruler
• Pattern Weights
• Markers/pens
• Cutting tool

 

Lay your fully taped pattern on a flat surface.  

Place your tracing paper on top, lining the edges on the fold side or straightest edge of the piece you are tracing.  Place pattern weights on top.  

Trace the pattern with a sharpie.

Use a ruler to keep the straight lines straight.  This really helps!

Mark your grain line direction and all placement markings. 

Hang your fully taped pattern piece in the closet for future use of all the other sizes.

Grab an envelope or file folder.

Pretty it up so you'll be able to find it later -- I'm keeping this pattern on TOP of all the others!

You're done! 

The next time you get an invitation to a baby shower, or news of a new baby on the way, 

you are ready to go!!!

I've decided NOT to share the photos of my first gift set.  They're for my niece and nephew.  The shower is in July.  Emma Rose is due early September.  You don't want me to ruin the surprise for them do you?

For inspiration and to view an array of beautiful garments you can make with this collection, 

please visit these blogs on the pattern release tour:

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11	THURSDAY, JUNE 12
Pattern Revolution	Rebekah Sews
Mama Says Sew	Lulu & Celeste
The Berry Bunch
Begin With B
FRIDAY, JUNE 13	MONDAY, JUNE 16
Once Upon a Sewing Machine	Golden Rippy
Feather’s Flights	Playground Pixie Designs
Pattern Nut	Friends Stitched Together
	The Life of Jennifer Dawn
TUESDAY, JUNE 17
Stitch and Bake
Shaffer Sisters
The Life of a Compulsive Crafter

You can also enter to win a fabulous Prize Package as Stitchwerx celebrates the release! http://stitchwerx.net/ainsley-aiden-baby-suite-i-pattern-release-giveaway Prize Package & Giveaway Rules Prize Package:           *4 patterns of your choice from Stitchwerx Designs           * Set of 4 Custom 8 x 10" Art Prints from Artful Life Designs           * $25 Gift Card from the Fabric Store of Your Choice           * Set of 100 Custom Mommy/Playdate Cards from Artful Life Designs The Contest Rules: You must be 18 to enter. You can gain entries by entering the Rafflecopter Prompts. Giveaway end: 6/20/14 at midnight EDT. One winner will be chosen and announced on 6/21/14. Good Luck everyone!  And, you can come back and thank me later! Happy Sewing! gloria june PS:  follow me on Pinterest!