A quick video on box pleats . . . .

I will be guest posting at Ellie Inspired about my fabulous Spring Lily from the bundleUP.  Here's a short video on how to measure & pin box pleats . . . .

You'll love the results!

Happy Sewing!

gloria june

Violette Fields Piper is playing my song

My last contribution to the Pattern Revolution BundleUP-Women tour is my vision of the Violette Fields Piper Misses.  You probably can't take this vision home to mama.   My take on the Piper is what I will call a bit risque.  Magical sewing mistress that I am.

I was pleasantly surprised by the full pattern pieces and at least one sewing skill this old broad doesn't see unless I dig into my paper pattern collection  -- a dart.  in the bodice even.  

This is both a scary but also exciting post in that I was teasing earlier today about whether or not I could "bring sexy back" to the women out there like me -- too close to 50 to not admit it.   I'll take the risk.  Why not?  




I am pleasantly surprised by this pattern.  It reminded me of the paper patterns I love to cut out while watching "Everybody Loves Raymond".  

Its a lot of cutting.  I don't mind at all.  I LOVE paper patterns. Tissue paper is much easier to ball up and put in the plastic grocery bag hanging off my glass on the side table though.  






















What I did not like was the printing of 45 pages (black ink only), then cutting & positioning and then taping and then cutting out the pattern pieces.  

Don't get me wrong, it was worth it -- I love this pattern.  But with a paper pattern, at least I only have to cut once.  

I use a tracing wheel and tracing paper --- old fashioned maybe,
but it always gets the job done for me!

Something I've rarely come across since making PDF patterns -- a dart. I was surprised.  Perhaps the PDF pattern revolution will not block out all traditional sewing standards and practices in place -- sneaking the kind of sewing I know into your skill set secretly.   

So, here it is.  

I remembered the sheer blue & white polka dot fabric I found at a Hancock Fabrics "spot the bolt" sale last year (I bought oodles of it at $1 a yard).  Perfect.  

No need for a bow.  This dress and old broad doesn't need it.  

I feel seductive and silly at the same time.  

Success.  My emotions and hormones are cycling in chaos.  

Ergo, age appropriate behavior.    (giggles)

You can still #bundleup.  

The sale ends at midnight June 27, 2014.

Shop here.

Happy Sewing,

gloria june

PJ's are in the Women's BundleUP!

Suzanne Winter, of Winter Wears, has released her first PDF Sewing Pattern and it's just for you!  AND, its a freebie until June 27, 2014 if you BundleUP!

Parisian Nights PJs

Comfort is the goal in these pajamas.  Suzanne designed these for use with light knits and stretch lace.  So for those of you who are drooling over the lightweight knits at Girl Charlee, this is the pattern for you to finally take the plunge and order those fabrics under 7 ounces!

Here's the sizing information so you can start adding to your cart!

When these pjs came up for testing, I was already in Walmart picking up some odds and ends.  I was strolling past the men's department when I noticed the files were ready for download.  The Tshirt fabric isn't lightweight and slinky, but it will work for a test garment . . . . 

Let's grab a couple of men's t-shirts and see what happens!  

Now for the pictorial  . . . . . 

I love my ruffler foot.  I use it to gather everything.  It makes a beautiful finished look.

There is decorative stitching using a variegated (multi-colored) thread across the top of the bodice and on the hems of the shorts, but my daughter stole my pjs and she's on a mini vacay.  :(

No need to remake.  The test PJs are perfect for us!

I used Tshirts for this test because I had the idea that, for those of you who have husbands that collect Tshirts and they need to be upcycled or thrown away, here's one way to catch his eye with his favorite sports team or rock band displayed on your pj's!  Cut out panels from the usable parts of the Tshirt if its closer to time to throw them away and he will notice you've saved something for him!  

These are comfy y'all.  You'll love having an option to make your own PJs!

Happy Sewing,

gloria june

I've got the Skinny on Jocole Patterns in the BundleUP!

The Pattern Revolution BundleUP for Women Blog Tour Continues!  The sale continues through June 27, 2014!  If you haven't made a decision yet, look over the patterns available here.

Today's look at the BundleUP is Jocole Patterns.  Two patterns are included!

 

Take a look at all of Jodi's PDF Patterns available here:  JOCOLE

A Couple of Pictures first . . . .

Jocole Peplum Top, modified sleeves, Elbow Length

Jocole Skinny Pant, Front Pockets, Capri length

Jocole Peplum Top

Honestly, when the buzz started a year or so ago about "Peplum" this and that, I had no idea what everyone was talking about.  I am a flip-flop, tennis skort, cami top styling girl that tills a garden, cleans my pool, mows "the back 40," entertainer of chickens, dogs and cats kind of girl.  I know nothing of style.  Just comfortable clothes that get me through each day.  

Then I realized my niece Katie mentioned something about never having found a peplum top that she really liked.  Yeah, a chance to try a peplum and find out what the fuss is all about.

Tshirt with a twist is what it is!

This top is a fitted knit t-shirt with a peplum at the natural waist and includes six (6) sleeve options.  After printing 15 pages with a smidge of colored ink use (the jocole logo), you will have 6 pattern pieces, one is optional to change the look of the back peplum.  Instructions are very detailed and every possible tip is included either directly in the pattern instruction or via a link provided to Jodi's extensive tips & tricks located at her website here.  

I finished my shirt in 30 minutes: from print & tape, cut & fabric to the serger.  (I've been sewing for 30+ years, and its not often I find a pattern I can sew together without looking at the instructions -- I'm in love with Jocole!)  If you take longer, no worries, we all sew at different levels!  I know I cried many times over the last 30 years struggling to learn to sew!  

My Peplum Top

I decided I wanted to make it one size larger, for layering. 

AND I wanted split sleeves.  

Glad I tried this!  I love the look.  

And I love the sweater knit I found on a clearance table at Hancock Fabrics a couple months ago.  #hoarder

I simply cut the sleeves in the largest size, split each sleeve in two pieces at the fold, overlapped the top and bottom of the sleeve to fit my armscye, stay-stitched, then set them in following the instructions.

Try it! You can figure this one out!

I wonder if Katie will like this!

Jocole Skinny Pants

Girls, how many pairs of pants do you have that, if you lay them out on the floor, look like a rectangle?  Are you shaped like a rectangle?  No, we all have a bit of a curve, whether or not you realize it!  

Fiddled with a decorative stitch on my sewing machine.  I'm liking that special touch!

Jodi has designed the essential easy-on, comfy knit waistband (the comfort of yoga pants plus the style of  skinny pants) one stop bottoms pattern.  I say bottoms because there are seven (shout it!) length options:  shorts, bermuda, clam digger, capri, petite, regular, tall.  And options for front and/or back pockets.  Yep.

I know.  You are amazed.  Jodi Jean Baird is amazing.  

My Skinnys

I found a woven in my stash that had the same leaf style as the sweater knit I used for my Peplum Top.  #lovemyfabrichoard!!!  And I had a lycra knit that I was saving for a bikini, so I knew I would be able to snip off a bit for my yoga waistband and still have enough left for future plans with that fabric.

And yes, another 30 minute garment completion time.  I did not have to look at her instructions, yet again.  (Of course I did look at the instructions -- you may not have been sewing as long as I have and you might wonder if everything you need to know to make these pants & top are there for you -- IT IS!!!!)

21 color coded pages to print, 2 pattern pieces for the pant, 2 optional pattern pieces for the pocket choices.  One measurement guide to cut your yoga waistband.  

For me, a perfect fit.  I do not have to go to another clothing store for bottoms.  Ever.  

(Fishtail Peplum Option)

My Recommendation

Because Jocole Patterns are filled with everything you need --  detailed instructions, photos/diagrams, links to extensive tips & tricks from Jodi on her blog, cutting lines for lengthening/shortening; and Jodi Jean Baird has created a community for discussion and help on Facebook; and, the devoted, helpful Jocole fans sharing their experience with Jocole patterns, as well as their personal sewing experience/expertise . . . (I need to take a deep breath here because that is a LOT y'all!) 

. . . you should definitely Bundle both Jocole Patterns offered in this sale.  

Then, go directly to her shop and buy some more!  

Happy Self-Care Sewing,

gloria june

PS:  Did I tell you I love Jodi Jean Baird?  She works hard for you honey!  Give her some of your money! And you'll get back so much more!   

Smart Tip: Lengthen or Shorten Your Pattern Pieces!

How to Lengthen/Shorten A Pattern Piece

If a pattern has a cut line to use for adding or removing length, you can customize the garment to fit your body style. This means the designer took the time to determine for you where it is most appropriate and will not disrupt the design or the way your fabric will lay once construction is complete.

I’m using the Love Notions Ladies Hip Hop Tank for this example to lengthen.  A tip for SHORTENING is at the end of this tutorial.

My chest is larger than my waist by 11 inches. Therefore, I know that I need to add at least 2” to the length of my tank. My chest will raise up the tank’s length on my body.

On the main pattern piece for the tank, you will find a scissor and dotted line indicating where to cut to lengthen or shorten.

I know I need to lengthen by 2” so I have cut on the dotted line and then squared my (now) 2 pattern pieces on my cutting mat, 2” apart.

I’ve recycled the paper that was left over from cutting out the actual pattern, turned it over so no print would show (avoiding confusion!), and placed it under my pattern pieces.
Repeat with the back pattern piece.

Tape to secure and you now have added length to your tank!

The same concept will work for shortening. Take the bottom part of the two pieces you created. Measure the length you need to REMOVE. Mark your cut lines on the bottom piece, using your cutting mat or other measuring tools. Cut on the line you just created/marked. Tape the bottom piece back to the top piece. Do the same with the back of the bodice. And you’re ready to cut your fabric!


Happy Sewing!
gloria june

Its a nice day for a White Wedding with Jenny by Sis Boom & Scientific Seamstress

Sis Boom / Scientific Seamstress' Jenny in June

I'm back again with another look at Pattern Revolution's BundleUP for Women.

She's already been around the block, but the Jenny Dress for Women is always welcome.

This dress is a partnership design by Jennifer Paganelli of Sis Boom and Carla Hegeman Crim, the Scientific Seamstress.  A variety of sewing patterns are available from this crew: sewing patterns for children, women, men and accessories; as well as fabrics and decorating inspiration.
Find out more at their websites: Sis Boom and Scientific Seamstress.

The Plan

This is my first chance to make a Jenny.  Many of you have already bought the pattern, and many of you have actually made it.  (I've got plenty of patterns that I haven't even opened yet!) 

I just watched the season finale of "Little Couple" wherein the husband surprises his wife with a vow renewal ceremony and has her personal seamstress design a dress.

Wait, what, personal seamstress? I am my personal seamstress. Hmph.  My husband won't be able to do that.  And, he can't look into my clothes for tags showing my size because I make my clothes.  What do I do (just in case he whisks me away to Hawaii again and we renew our vows on the beach too . . . )

So I dig into my extremely large closet filled with hoarded fabrics and patterns and what do you know . . . lots of "white" fabrics and frills.  Ok, let's have a pretend White Wedding with Jenny!

The Details are in the Instructions

Scientific Seamstress patterns are full of detail and explanation and diagrams and drawings and, oh my . . . Yes, there are 215 pages in this pattern.  The majority of those pages are (shout it!) separate pattern pieces for each size!  Yep, no nesting.  And no color.  Just print out the size that best correlates to your measurements.  My ink cartridge thanks me!  

The instructions are much more detailed and may frighten you, but don't be scared -- all of it is there to help you improve your sewing skills & knowledge!  She truly has a sewing scientific method that will benefit you in ways you may not realize right away.  Its worth the time and lessons learned!

My Jenny

My body type is hard to fit.  Even following the guidelines to the letter, this dress doesn't fit my body the way I like.  My daughter and I have the same waist and hip measurements, but the dress will fall differently in different places on our bodies.  (gravity hasn't affected her 22 year old body yet!). 

My Jenny advice for you 

Bundle this pattern and learn techniques and tricks to custom fit a garment just for you!  Its worth it for now and for the future!

Here's what to do when you start your Jenny:  

Use your lining pieces as your muslin.  Prepare the lining following the instructions as you would the fashion fabric.  Try the lining on with a bra if you plan to wear one with this dress.  Make any adjustments on the lining piece, marking your changes with pins or marking pen/pencil.  

Now you can put together your fashion fabric pieces matching the adjustments you have made on your lining! Voila!   

You may not need any adjustment at all, depending on how your body type falls in the design of the dress.  If so, you're halfway through because you used your lining as the muslin!  Score!

The magic of sewing your own clothes is that YOU make it work for you.  

The magic of sewing patterns is 

that someone has worked very hard to give you a head start on your dream wardrobe. 

What will you dream to be in your Jenny?

The Blog Tour Continues throughout the sale.  Here's some more looks at the patterns available:

June 20

Max California, Gloria June, Mother Sews Best

June 21 

Feather's Flights, Gloria June, Becca Duval Photography,

June 22

The Mother Huddle, Gloria June

June 23

Mother Sews Best, Idle Fancy, Swoodson Says

June 24

Shaffer Sisters, That's What She Crafted

June 25

Friends Stitched Together, Handmade Dress Haven, Sprouting Jube Jube

June 26

Modern Handmade, Rebel and Malice, Lulu and Celeste

June 27

Sew McCool, Pienkel, Gloria June, Sew Maris

Happy Sewing (and dreams),

gloria june

PS:
An outtake that I put back in.  Taking photos is not an easy task. And this has been a long month of secret sewing for all of you!

I'm running out of daylight here!

ModKid Hailey Misses - It's in the BundleUp for Women hosted by PatternRevolution!

Pattern Revolution presents another bundle!  It's a BundleUp opportunity for you to get your self-care sewing on!  Today I am reviewing the Hailey Misses by Patty Young of ModKid.  

Get your copy of this pattern, and many more patterns just for ladies here.  

Hailey Misses

by modkid

Shirt, Tunic and Dress for Women

Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL

This dress makes me feel GREAT!

I feel fun and carefree in this dress!  I almost forgot that little voice in my head that reminds me I'm almost 50 (I'm planning ahead, it happens in 636 days . . . .and maybe 50 is the new black . . .) I believe the thoughts "footloose and fancy free" came to mind as I walked outside to take a few photos on our property.

The woman I want to thank for making me feel pretty today is Patty Young, owner/designer of ModKid. Patty describes herself as a "lover of all things pretty and colorful" on her Blogger Profile. I hope I have complimented her vision for the Hailey Misses.

To learn more about Patty and her beautiful creations, please visit her blog here.  You may also like to see her fabric line at Michael Miller Fabrics here.

Let's get to the Pattern now, shall we?!

This PDF Pattern is designed for women, sizes xs - xxl (size chart reflects 30" - 42" bust, 32" - 44" hip). Instructions and pattern pieces are included to make a Top, Tunic or Dress.  There are 18 color-coded pages to print, 3 nested pattern pieces to cut. The suggested fabrics are wovens (lighter weight class) or knits.

I went with a knit because I love how well it drapes.  And I know it shirrs well too!

This is a fun and flirty design, a v-neck, scoop back, and comfortable sleeves.  

Construction:

I decided to wait to finish the neck and arm sleeves until after I completed basic construction of the garment. I wanted to check the length of the bodice, how it sits on my body, while wearing my favorite bra.  Waiting to finish these hems would allow me to make changes to the shoulder seams, if necessary.  I also prefer the look of a finished hem/seam.

I did not have to make any changes! Perfect fit!  

I also waited to add the shirring after I stitched BOTH sides of the garment.

I am a backstitcher when I shirr, so I was afraid that I would cut into my stitched bobbin elastic when finishing the open side seam -- I use my serger more often than not in a garment like this, so I would probably not pay attention and cut my bobbin strings with the serger blade.  I like to shirr in-the-round.

I shirred the recommended number of rows for my size.  Perfect!

I chose to leave the hem unfinished.

Time to take a few photos!

My Recommendation

YES!! Add this to your BundleUp purchase!!!!

A Beginner+ will be comfortable sewing this pattern.  It is a quick sew -- about an hour to hour and a half --more if you are a perfectionist and want your rows shirred in the straightest line.

The instructions include helpful guides to choose your fabric, determine stretch (if you chose a knit), how to shirr, other helpful tips relating to the construction of this garment; and, diagrams & photos are included as you read through the instructions.

I will use this pattern often.  It is the most comfortable dress I own at the moment!

Thank you Patty Young for this wonderful self-care moment.

I think I'll head to Joann's next time I go to the city.  They carry Patty's fabrics, designed for Michael Miller Fabrics!

Show some love and head on over to the other Blogs on this Pattern Revolution Women's BundleUP Promotional Tour (June 20-27, 2014):

June 20

Max California, Gloria June, Mother Sews Best

June 21 

Feather's Flights, Gloria June, Becca Duval Photography,

June 22

The Mother Huddle, Gloria June

June 23

Mother Sews Best, Idle Fancy, Swoodson Says

June 24

Shaffer Sisters, That's What She Crafted

June 25

Friends Stitched Together, Handmade Dress Haven, Sprouting Jube Jube

June 26

Modern Handmade, Rebel and Malice, Lulu and Celeste

June 27

Sew McCool, Pienkel, Gloria June, Sew Maris

I'll be back tomorrow with a look at Scientific Seamtress' Jenny; and then again the following day with a look at the options (I know!) I chose for my Jocole Peplum and Jocole Skinny Pants!  And on the 27th, I'll take a look at Violette Field Threads' Piper.  (My daughter wanted this one!)  

Happy Sewing!  

gloria june